Variability of Waves and Currents in Haeundae Coastal Waters

Lim, Hak-Soo

Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention 2015;2(3):119-130.
Published online July 30, 2015.

Variability of Waves and Currents in Haeundae Coastal Waters

Hak-Soo Lim

해운대 파랑과 흐름 변동특성 분석

임학수

Abstract

In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic wave and current meter (AWAC) in Haeundae are analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of Haeundae coastal waters. The seasonal variability of wave is analysed using AWAC observation at station BS2, located at the water depth of 22 m measured during from July 2013 to February 2015. In spring and summer, relatively week waves from the SSW and S directions were generated by southwesterly winds and typhoon, whereas in fall and winter, strong waves were predominant coming from the E and ESE directions generated by northeasterly winds and swell waves from East Sea. The estimated residual currents with moving average on the data with fortnightly data windows (MSf) show that the directions of nearshore currents at BS3 and BS4 which are located near the ends of the west and east of beach head toward SW and E in the opposite directions driven by wave-induced current. In the offshore, the residual currents at BS2 constantly flow ENE direction except in summer. This long-term observed wave and current data is also used to validate sediment transport modeling in Haeundae for developing coastal erosion control system.

Key Words: Haeundae; AWAC observation; wave variation; residual current; beach erosion